An Exotic Trip to the Andamans

An Exotic Trip to the Andamans

Background:

I had distributed copies of my book, Chiseled Perceptions, at the Khuldabad ijtema of November 2018. Mrs. Sajida, who was in Mumbai some time later, read that book at Zameer sahab's house. She liked the book, contacted me, and invited me over to her house... in the Andamans. I leapt at the idea, and booked the tickets and tour package with Andaman Fiesta in June, the moment the schedule of my daughter's Diwali vacations got announced.

21-27th October 2019:

October end is the beginning of the tourist season. It is not advisable to go there in the monsoons; the choppy waters come in the way of inter-island ferries and water sports like jet skiing, snorkeling, scuba diving, parasailing etc.

Day 1: Monday, 21st October

Bidding adieu to the hustle bustle of Mumbai, we took a 4am flight to Port Blair. But it was raining! We were worried that these unexpected rains would spoil our trip, but they, on the contrary, enhanced it. The temperatures dipped, and it, by God's immense grace, did not rain when we were out on our excursions.

The first morning was spent in bed, and the evening at the iconic Cellular Jail aka Kalapani. We were treated to a light and sound show on the history of the Cellular Jail, with a generous sprinkling of nationalistic fervor and attempts to glorify ‘Veer’ Savarkar. They did not tell us how he left the prison prematurely though; but that is not the subject of our travelogue either ;-)

That evening, our hosts, Zubair sahab and his family and Zameer sahab, came to meet us at our hotel. We chatted for an hour before they left.

Day 2: Tuesday, 22nd October

The day began with an 8am luxury cruise to Havelock Island. The wife went scuba diving. I being asthmatic, and Sumaiyah being too young, had to forego this enchanting experience.

We then checked into Hotel Bluebird, a cozy rustic bamboo cottage with hammocks and all, and soon left for the best beach we had ever seen. Right out of a postcard, the Radhanagar Beach has glistening white sand, blue-green waves and thick forests. No plastic or candy stick sticking to the feet, no oil smudging our hands; it is a far cry from Juhu and Girgaum.

The night was spent in that bamboo cottage under the blanket of a star-studded sky. I can only see Orion in Mumbai, but the night sky here is decked up with countless lamps.

Day 3: Wednesday, 23rd October

Early next morning, a speedboat took us to Elephant Beach. Although it is on Havelock Island itself, the route to this beach goes through the sea. Renowned for its water sports, we went jet skiing and snorkeling. The underwater view is breathtaking; what with schools of colourful fishes and beautiful corals! We also sailed on a glass bottom boat to catch a glimpse the world beneath. Wife went parasailing; I and Sumaiyah stayed back for the same reasons that did not allow us to scuba dive. But snorkeling made up for whatever we had missed the previous day. It is absolutely safe, and everyone going to the Andamans should definitely have it on their checklist.

Back to the jetty, we had some delicious seafood for lunch at a seaside restaurant, cooked in Malabari and Bengali styles. And yes, have you ever had tuna fish pizza for dinner?

Day 4: Thursday, 24th October

In the wee hours of the morning, I and Sumaiyah trekked to the Vijayanagar Beach to catch the rising sun. A hop skip and jump from our hotel, we waited more than half an hour to see how God brings forth the day from the night. The moon just above the sunrise point made the entire scene absolutely spectacular.

After coconut water and breakfast, we took another yacht to Neil Island, and after checking into a beautiful resort [Pearl Park], we headed to Bharatpur Beach. Here, Sue sells sea shells on the seashore. So we bought some. Only that we bought them from Shankar and not Sue. After asar, father and daughter headed to the resort's swimming pool, where she received coaching from yours truly. And what a great coach I am! The girl has learnt how to float and propel herself forward. The sunset beach was just outside the hotel, but we could see the sun dip into the sea from the pool itself.

It gets dark in the Andamans by 5pm, and there is almost no internet or sim connectivity, so 8pm is the bedtime here. Andaman desperately needs to be put in a separate time-zone; the difference between India’s western coast and far-eastern coast is close to an hour and a half!

Day 5: Friday, 25th October

Before cruising back to Port Blair, we made a quick trip to Natural Bridge. Navigating through a bed of dead corals, we saw how the sea erodes rocks to form an arch (see pic). We bought some souvenirs from an 83 year old uncle who taught us the meaning of self reliance. He also blew the conch for us, which we, 50 years younger to him, couldn't!

Back to Port Blair, and more importantly, back to net connectivity. In the evening we went for a stroll at Corbyn Cove. The water was not as murky as in Mumbai, but not as clear as in the other islands. The ride along the coast was a treat to the senses.

Close to sunset we drove to Zameer sahab's quarters and attended a family fair. We then had dinner with him at the mess and returned to our hotel.

Day 6: Saturday, 26th October

Around zuhr (i.e. 11am), we were at the Marine Museum and Aquarium, and then at Marina Park. Sajida sahiba picked us up from the park, and took us along to the Islamic Guidance Centre (IGC). We had lunch over there, followed by an address to a gathering of ISMAT (Islanders Social Movement for Awareness and Training) members on the Islamic philosophy behind social welfare.

Post maghrib, I also had the privilege of sharing some tips on Qur'an study with a mixed audience of 60 men and ladies. That night we took a ferry to our hosts’ island off Port Blair and spent the night at their bungalow as their guests.

Day 7: Sunday, 27th October

The day began with the chirping of birds and the sight of thick green woods in which this bungalow is nestled. The morning was spent with SIO and GIO cadre, to whom I explained the Why and How of Dawah, while the afternoon was spent with Zubair sahab, with me trying to understand a myriad of geopolitical and socio-religious issues from his erudite self. I also had the honour of signing copies of Chiseled Perceptions for members of the audience on both days.

After asar (3pm), we went on a jungle safari to Mt. Harriet National Park. From here, we could see the location shown on the Rupees 20 note. After maghrib, I was offered an opportunity to present my study of Surah alGhashiyah to a gathering of JIH families. We then had dinner with our gracious hosts and left their island for Port Blair, stayed with Zameer sahab overnight at his quarters and departed for the airport after fajr.

Take home: 

This trip has taught me many profound things. The islanders are very polite and most welcoming. I was surrounded by divine signs of nature. How an igneous volcanic island- which logic tells me ought to have been barren- is home to tropical forests brimming with wildlife is what makes me a believer all over again. God indeed exists. If you need proof, go visit the Andamans.

-Dr. Parvez Mandviwala